Bathymetry and Waves micro-lesson
Do you struggle with balancing your kids’ screen time with their education? Say hello to 1Question, the app that solves this problem with a fun twist! Our app lets your child earn screen time minutes in their favourite apps by watching educational videos and correctly answering quiz questions. And the best part? You get to decide which apps to lock behind learning using 1Question.
Kids learn by watching short, engaging video lessons.
What is bathymetry? It's the measure of the depth of water in ocean, seas, or lakes. So why is it important? Waves are formed when the ocean floor gets shallower. This is what creates the waves we like to surf. Being able to look at charts of the sea floor like these is important because waves break when the water is a certain depth, 1.3 times deeper than the wave height. So, a 1-meter-tall wave is where the ocean floor is only 1.3 meters deep. Surf forecasts like this use bathymetry to calculate wave heights when they reach surf spots. When we know what the slope of the ocean floor looks like, we can predict the size and shape of the waves. Surfers like plunging waves where the slope of the ocean floor pushes the wave up enough so that it breaks into a nice surf wave. This is a spilling wave which has a very gentle slope and creates a very gentle wave. Here, the ocean floor has a very steep slope which creates a very steep wave, better for advanced surfers. So, the bathymetry of the ocean floor gives us an idea of how steep the wave will be. Engineers use this information to make artificial wave parks like this one here.
Kids earn more screen time by answering fun educational questions.
Here are some example of questions about this video that kids may be asked in the 1Question app to earn screen time.
Surf waves are formed because the ocean floor gets?1) Shallow2) Deep3) Steep4) Flat
What is the study of the ocean and sea floor called?1) Bathymetry2) Marine Biology3) Surfology4) Hydrology
Experts in bathymetry can use this information to create?1) Ocean floor maps2) Surf reports3) Tsunami early warning systems4) Weather forecasts
What types of waves do engineers design for wave parks?1) Plunging waves2) Swell waves3) Spilling waves4) Tsunami waves
Waves that have a gentle slope are called?1) Spilling waves2) Tide waves3) Swell waves4) Tsunami waves
Which type of waves do surfers like?1) Plunging waves2) Tide waves3) Swell waves4) Tsunami waves
Recreational screen time
Kids can use the screen time minutes they earned to unlock the apps selected by their parent e.g. games, social media, streaming, etc.
Out of time
When screen time minutes run out, kids are locked out and need to complete more learning in 1Question to earn more time.
Meet your educator
Our micro-courses are developed and delivered by qualified educators from around the world.
This lesson is about angles of the reef and how they create surf waves. Waves…
What makes good waves to surf? This is about the physics of how waves travel….
This lesson is about tides and how they change. This affects surf waves because surfers…
So, what makes good waves to surf? The easy answer is storms. Do all storms…
This lesson is about onshore and offshore wind. Wind is very important in surfing. Wind…
This lesson is about the bathymetry of giant waves. Some surf waves can be huge…
This is a lesson about wind and sunrise and sunset. Sometimes surfers get up at…
So, what turns open ocean waves into surf waves? Surf waves actually start their journey…
This lesson is about wave refraction. Wave refraction is the bending of waves as it…